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        The manufacture of Etles silk is a typical representative of multi-culturalism on the Silk Road and a symbol of the intermingling of many cultures. First, the silk production technology of mulberry planting, sericulture, and silk reeling originated in China. In contrast, the artisans brought the dyeing and weaving technology back to their hometown after learning and absorbing from Central Asia. They combined it with their creation to produce. In addition, the word “etles” is widespread in the Indo-European and Turkic vocabularies and has different interpretations in different countries. In ancient Greece, it is a giant with the hand on the earth pattern; in Iran and Turkey, there are different interpretations. The floral pattern of Etles silk is a blend of Chinese silk and Persian style, forming a unique national style of clothing and cultural forms.

 

        Etles silk can be divided into four categories: 1) black-based silk, the pattern mainly includes earrings, tassels, fences, ram’s horn, sickle, flowers, etc.; 2) red-based silk, the pattern mainly includes pears, apples, saws, mallets, plant leaves, small flowers, rawap, Amygdalus communis L., etc.; 3) yellow-based silk, the pattern mainly includes apples, wooden combs, chains, fences, Amygdalus communis L., etc.; 4) Shache silk, colors are separated from each other, forming a multi-combination form and showing a jumping rhythm.

 

        Etles, which means “tie and dye,” is a traditional hand-made silk product woven by the folk in southern Xinjiang. After the cocoons are boiled and drawn, the silk is spun, doubled, curled, and divided into threads. According to the design handed down from generations, it is dipped into natural dyes prepared from minerals and plants for coloring, then dyed and warped in layers. Finally, it is divided into threads and put on the machine, where the weavers cycle through, tread the wooden boards and move the wooden shuttles for weaving.

 

        Tie-dyeing is a resist printing technique that ties or sews the silk, fabric, or dresses into specific folds according to the designed pattern. Then it is put into the dyeing vat and dyed. After dyeing and drying, and removing the knots, the naturally formed pattern appears. Various small clusters of patterns, such as plum blossoms, can be tied. The production method is simple and can be made into a personal preference pattern.

Some Examples

Uyghur Etles skirt

Uygur or Tajik robe buttoning down the front

Uyghur Etles silk kerchief

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